I grew up on Taiwan's humid hot summers, midnight snacks from night-markets, and belting Taiwanese Mando-pop songs in KTVs. I've been spoiled by Taipei's efficient public transportation system, clean MRTs with no gum stuck to the bottom of seats.This island of scooters, weekend flower markets, and friendly faces raised me to be who I am today — deathly afraid of mosquitoes but drawn to the promises of mountain and sea adventures.
Growing up, I was lucky to have my relatives be my personal tour guides every time I went back to Taiwan, proudly sharing their favorite spots and avoiding the crowds. I lived in Taiwan for 5 years before moving to the big melting pot that is the United States. My summer vacations consisted of late night $3 hot springs baths and followed by views of the Taipei skylines on top of Yangmingshan mountain, eating hot pot that warmed my belly, and collecting mosquito bites of various sizes — I think the record was 83 bites. Every year, I looked forward to the family trip to a resort in Hualien where my family would book out the table tennis and billiard room for 3 hours straight before spending time the rest of the day in the lounging in the hotel pool.
It wasn't until these last few years did I grow to discover how I personally wanted to explore Taiwan. I grew up thinking that Taiwan was only about food and fabulous resorts. And while those are still worth experiencing, I have found a whole different world of hidden waterfalls, star filled skies, and dramatic hikes.
I still go to my favorite childhood spots, but I also love finding new places and bringing my family to destinations they have never heard of. I have had the privilege to travel Taiwan leveraging insights from the locals and combining it with my own "touristy" perspective. The result is a collection of my favorite spots in Taiwan—a list of lesser-known secrets that are often hidden behind the curtains of bubble tea, night markets, and lights of Taipei 101.
1. Afternoons in Lalashan
A quintessential Taiwanese experience is driving up dramatic mountains on tight two-way streets surrounded by tractor trailers threatening to squeeze you off the cliffs. While the drive isn't for the faint of heart, the slow winding roads allow for stunning sights over the edges as you feel yourself sucked into the lush subtropical broad-leaf forests around you. With just being 2 hours outside of Taipei city center, Lalashan is a quick city getaway that is a popular day trip for the locals. On weekends, the one way trip to Lalashan can quickly turn into 4 hours of stop-and-go traffic among one of Taiwan's most beautiful mountain drives.
I'd advise to go on a weekday or just before sunset on weekends when most are making the reverse trip home. If you arrive during the day, take a visit to the Sacred Tree grove where trees ranging 500-3,000 years old tower above you. Stick around after the day travelers leave and have dinner at a local bed and breakfast.
Sip tea, chat with the owners and hear their stories collected over the years, then wait for the sun to set over the mountains scattering its light rays over the carving ridges. Even in the hot summer months, the air turns chilled. Fog will start to build up and the street lights underneath light up the sea of clouds below. Bring a blanket and stop at the side of the road where there are no lights in sight and look up to see a full sky of stars.
Logistics: One of our favorite places to watch the sunset is the 俠雲山莊 B&B. The hosts are delightful and even if you don't stay for the night, make sure to call ahead to order dinner. They grow their own veggies and the cold mountain nights make them extra sweet.
2. Stay a night in Jiufen
Jiufen, with it's glowing red lanterns and traditional snack filled streets can be packed with tourists. If you are around when it rains—which is often, you'll find yourself stuck elbow to elbow with tightly squeezed travelers playing umbrella bumper cars. But at dusk, when the afternoon storm passes, pick a spot to drink tea and watch the fog quickly rise up the mountains overlooking the Pacific ocean.
At night, the lanterns are lit and it can be quite a catastrophic experience as everyone tries to capture the iconic "Sprited Away" inspired imagery. Therefore, the key is booking an overnight stay, which allows you to explore well after the tour buses leave and experience the magic of the area. Jiufen is an old gold mining town that has retained its old-town charm. The weather here changes every minute and staying a night or two will allow you to see the different flavors of scenery ranging from breathtaking ocean views, to mysterious -mist-enveloped mountains.
In the morning, hike the Teapot Mountain and see the yellowish tint of where the orange water meets the ocean. If it's not windy, the rocky boulders at the summit sure makes you feel like you're on the top of the world.
Logistics: Take a train and then a bus to Jiufen. If you are going with a group, there are more expensive Taxi trips that will take you directly from Jiufen back to Taipei ($30-40 dollars). Bed & Breakfasts and Hostels are popular. We stayed at the Boxed Inn and had a fantastic view of the ocean from the balcony and highly recommend the stay with the cheerful owners. Local bus lines can take you from Jiufen Old Road to the nearby Teapot Mountain hikes, Gold Museums, Golden Waterfalls, and other hikes and adventures. In the summer time, avoid hiking Teapot mountain during noon, as the hike offers no shade coverage from the blazing sun.
3. Oceans of Green Island
Green Island, one of the offshore islands of Taiwan, is a treat for anyone who loves the ocean. The water here can have up to 100 meters of visibility and combined with the comfortable warm waters of the tropical current, it was the perfect place for my introduction to snorkeling and free-diving.
I didn't have a chance to dive here but underwater canyons, colorful corals can all be found a bit further off-shore. This was the place where I was first free-dove and it opened my eyes to a whole other world under the seas. Exploring the Blue Cave was a stunning experience. In the early morning hours, the light hits just at the perfect angle and the light beams down into the deep depths of the cave. I had previously thought that pictures of this sort found on the internet were all photo-shopped, but Green Island showed me that they were real. I felt a very deep connection to the ocean here and it made me realize that the gift of swimming and feeling comfortable in the water is something that is truly priceless.
Green Island also holds a dark part of history. It is worth visiting the White Terror Museum, a memorial for the estimated 5,000-28,000 deaths during the 30 years of Martial Law in Taiwan from 1947-1987. The prison held many political prisoners and is an important part of Taiwan's history. Outside rocks that were the objects of prayer to so many who have lost hope can be seen.
Aside from the ocean and the history, Green Island also hosts one of the only three salt water hot springs in the world. Finish the trip with a bike ride around the island and hike to one of the many windswept hilltops for the sunset. Golden meadows of Niutou Hill have rugged edges allowing a full panoramic view of the ocean. The waves there crash in rhythmic dances and the occasional bird flies dangerously, teasing the cliffs and ocean spray—but never flying too close to be swept under. At sunset, the light can be seen disappearing behind the tall mountains of Taiwan's mainland. Take care along the edge, but find yourself a windproof spot and take in the sounds of the waves below. Stay a few nights to really experience the adventurous but relaxing island life.
Logistics: One of the best parts about Green Island and it's nearby sister island Orchid Island is the affordability of underwater excursions. Gear rentals can cost around 1,500 NTD ($50 USD) and shore dives are around 1,000-3,000 NTD depending on the length. In 2013, it was listed as the top icon dive sight in Asia Pacific by Sport Diver.
Green Island is located off-shore of Taitung. The best way to reach the island is to take a train to Taitong and then catch a 40 minute ferry ride. Stay a couple nights at the many bed and breakfasts and book the adventure tours locally. Here's a very helpful resource on logistics of Green Island by TheSandyFeet.
4. Pingxi Crags
When people think of the Pingxi, many think of the colorful lanterns released into the summer sky, a nostalgically romantic scene made popular by numerous Taiwanese dramas. While watching the lanterns float up to the sky next to the picturesque old train station is a memorable experience, a satisfying secret lies a short walk across the tracks.
There are actually three peaks on the trail, each marked by a protruding rock that provide a view overlooking the whole town and the nearby mountain range. The hike is moderate but is is not suitable for those afraid of heights. The steps are carved directly into the boulders but with metal rod framing the steps, the fear is really only alive in the mind. The shortest, but most dramatic peak is Xiaozhishan, which has a ladder that connects the trail to the summit with rock embedded stairs.
This is not a trail that should be attempted during a rainstorm as the steps become very slippery when wet. On a sunny day, the hike offers a full range of view below and on mistier days, clouds can be seen resting between the mountain tops.
The first image was taken from Cimu Peak looking out to Xiaozhi Peak. The second and third images were of the stairs leading up to Xiaozhi Peak.
Logistics: Take the train or the bus to Pingxi Train Station. If you take the train, you'll have to transfer at Ruifang Station to the Pingxi line. If you choose to release the lanterns, make sure to select a shop that offer biodegradable "eco" lanterns that are made of paper structures instead of steel. Ask around for the direct directions but a shop towards the end of the street named "Two sisters shop" offers them. If you're traveling on weekends, I'd suggest getting on the train towards the last few stops and then head back towards Ruifang train station. Closer to Ruifang means lesser chance of getting a seat on the way home.
5. Fulong Biking
Take another train away from the city to explore Fulong's bike path. This isn't exactly a secret place for the locals, but I rarely see foreign tourists explore this area. Right out of the train station, you'll encounter two things this area is known for: bento boxes and bikes. Grab a bento box for $2 USD and then rent either a traditional bike for $3.5 (100 NTD) a day or an electric bicycle for a little over.
The popular bike trail cuts through Old Caoling railroad tunnel then carves through old stone villages and around the mountains as it follows the ocean edge. The tunnel was originally built in the Japanese era in 1924 and was the longest tunnel in Taiwan when it was first finished. The cool tunnel is quite a retreat under the beating sun. But when emerged from the other side, the ocean reflects the blue tint of the sky and the ride is an easy, fit for the whole family. Halfway through the trail, a picturesque coffee shop awaits you. The whole loop through traditional villages and coastal rock formations will end back at the train station, taking around 1-2.5 hours depending on the stops you make.
Logistics: The train will take you to Fulong station and the northeast coast of Taiwan is filled with hidden gems connected through the Fulong Shuttle Bus. Yuhliu's geopark featured in the second picture has odd rock formations and the hike along Bitou school provides an amazing view of the ocean.
6. Get lost in the other side of Alishan
There was a silent crinkling from the leaves with the fog draped across the canopy. The noise from the crowded parking lot quickly dampened by the moss covered trees. Moving through the pair of old train tracks, the sound of the Taiwan Yuhina and the White-eared Sibia occasionally moving about the air. Most of the time, the forest remained silent. Deeper into the grove the fog descends down, weaving its way in through the trunks, playing with the light that struck from gaps between the leaves. The mist scattered the light rays, making single beams strike down on the forest floor. At these moments, there wouldn't even be visibility of 3 feet in front.
Then just as quickly as it came, the fog would lift—playing an never ending game of hide and seek with you, the hiker who had just came in for a brief moment to hide from the man-made worries outside.
This forest used to be homes of thousand year old giants. The Taiwanese Red Cypress roamed about these lands, supporting micro ecosystems. Those closest to the trails were cut down by the Japanese 70 years ago, leaving only trunks that have begun to rot out from the inside. If you look closely, and allow yourself to feel, you can still sense the presence of the cypress trees. When passing by one particularly large trunk, the air becomes slightly lighter, filling those who pass with energy. The Taiwanese has a saying that the forest is like a drug. That the trees release "fen duo jing" or cytokines that soothe our worries and re-calibrates the mind. Tefuye Ancient trail is a great place to forest bathing and completing just the beginning of the section is rejuvenating.
Most people remain inside the Alishan National Scenic area on their visit, but there are numerous hikes, forests, and bed & breakfasts nearby that offers a much more personal experience with a fraction of the crowds.
Stay a night or two in Fanlu village and drink traditional tea grown in the area. The owners of David's House treated us to tea and and we shared stories late into the night. They taught us how to make handmade Aiyu dessert, an all natural refreshing jelly paired with honey and lemons. David's house (茶米屋) (de me wu) translates to "tea rice house" and fits perfectly with their son's name David. Stay a night here with outstanding hospitality and learn how this B&B grew out of their hope for their son to get married.
This area is known for their spectacular sunrises and at 隙頂初旭民宿the sunrise can be seen right outside the balcony window. Just a 3 minute drive from the B&B is a short scenic hike that is extremely popular for photographers during sunset. Going during sunrise allows you to have the whole place to yourself and potentially see the famous sea of clouds.
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The beauty of Taiwan is that both the sea and the mountains are easily accessible from the city within one day. But this ease of travel often leads to crowds around the famous hot spots. But there are many more spots to explore, even for the English speaking traveler. Taiwan's beauty isn't limited to the authentic delicious bubble tea and the fireworks of Taipei 101. Ask the locals about their favorite spots, find your own off-the-beaten track adventures, and strike up a conversation with your bed-and-breakfast host.
See you in Taiwan.
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